I am now in Roncesvalles in Spain and thr onslaught of new pilgrims begins. Already I see many blisters on the new walkers…a consequence of being over zealous on the first day I think. Many people walked incredibly fast for the first 8 km and then I watched them quuckly struggle as the climb up the pyrenese started to take its toll.

The first 20km of the walk is a climb….and just seems to never end. You reach a plateau and think thank god….but then it just keeps climbing. Many times I couldn’t see very far in front of me because the clouds are surrounding you. But as they passed over the scenary was breathtaking. I stopped many times to drink in the views and try to come terms with the fact that I was getting higher and higher, and the views more amazing at every turn. The last 4-5km began with a phenomenally steep descent down a rocky path…but you were soon enveloped by forest on either side. The feeling of tranquility and peace was quickly destroyed by the fucking onslaught of walkers at the gite…or albergue in Spain. I sit enjoying a beer with the voice of a woman that sounds like a toy doll and a laugh that sounds like the wicked witch from the Wizard of Oz…its like nails through my ears. Her companion that walk with her has several dolls attached to back pack….its a little bit crazy actually.

I met a canadian guy who seems to think that this going to be theeasiest thing he has ever done. His ego is ridiculous and depending on how many beers I have, I may have to tell him! Anyway time will tell whether the camino breaks him or not. There are many walkers stiff and sore now and struggling to walk…but it becomes easier as the body eventually gets used to long distance walking and catches up with the mind. I am thankful that I have now completed 775km and everything is in good working order. Lets see how the next few days go, but I am looking forward to a rest for a few days in Pamplona…and possibly new boots now that mine are no longer waterproof (thanks to a hole) and losing their grip as the soles wear away….but I love them so I’m not sure if  I will be able to give them up just yet!